The last train on the Yamanote line departs just before 1 AM. For most tourists, this is the signal to head back to their hotels.
For those who stay, Tokyo transforms.
The Golden Gai
In Shinjuku, 200 tiny bars crowd into six narrow alleys. Each bar seats maybe six people. The bartenders are artists, writers, retired salary men—each bar a window into a different Tokyo.
4 AM Ramen
At 4 AM, the ramen shops are packed with salary workers finishing all-night shifts, club-goers with smeared makeup, and travelers who have discovered the secret: Tokyo best ramen happens when the city should be sleeping.
First Light at Tsukiji
By 5 AM, I am at what remains of Tsukiji outer market. The tuna auction has moved, but the sushi stalls remain. An omakase breakfast of fish so fresh it practically swam to my plate.